Create Places to Explore and Hide

A completely open chicken run can feel exposed and may offer very little stimulation.

Adding visual barriers and sheltered corners makes the space more interesting. It can also help lower-ranking hens move out of sight if another chicken is being bossy.

Useful additions include:

Logs

Tree stumps

Low platforms

Large plant pots placed on their sides

Wooden crates

Small shelters with more than one exit

Piles of sturdy branches

Avoid creating narrow hiding places with only one entrance, as a hen could become trapped by a more dominant flock member.

Anything placed in the run should be stable, safe and easy to move when you need to clean underneath it.

Add Chicken Enrichment Activities

Chicken enrichment does not need to be expensive. The aim is simply to encourage natural behaviours such as scratching, pecking, exploring and foraging.

• Simple chicken run enrichment ideas include:
• Hanging a cabbage or leafy vegetable
• Scattering a small amount of suitable food through clean bedding
• Providing a tray filled with soil and dry leaves
• Adding logs that can be turned over occasionally
• Using a safe pecking block
• Providing a chicken treat ball
• Moving perches and objects around from time to time

Food-based activities should be used in moderation. Treats should only make up a small part of your chickens’ diet, with their main food coming from a complete and nutritionally balanced chicken feed.

Avoid using long pieces of string to hang food, as these can become tangled around a chicken’s feet or legs.

Use Natural Materials

Logs, branches and tree stumps are useful additions to a chicken run because they encourage climbing, scratching and exploring.

Chickens may perch on them, stand on them to preen or search around them for insects. Turning a log over occasionally can reveal small bugs and give the flock something new to investigate.

Only use untreated wood. Check natural materials regularly for sharp edges, rot or instability.

You can also add a pile of clean, dry leaves for the hens to scratch through. Avoid anything mouldy or collected from areas that may have been treated with pesticides or weedkiller.

Can You Put Plants in a Chicken Run?

Keeping plants alive inside a chicken run can be challenging. Chickens are likely to scratch around the roots, peck the leaves and stand on anything within reach.

You may have more success growing chicken-safe plants around the outside of the run, where the hens can reach leaves through the wire without destroying the roots.

Plants inside the run can also be protected with sturdy wire cages.

Always check that a plant is safe for chickens before adding it. Avoid anything treated with pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weedkillers.

Position Feeders and Drinkers Carefully

Feeders and drinkers are essential, but where you place them can affect how clean and dry the chicken run remains.

Put them under cover so that rain does not spoil the feed or fill the drinker with dirty water.

Raising feeders and drinkers slightly can help prevent chickens from scratching bedding and soil into them. They should still be low enough for every member of the flock to reach comfortably.

Clean drinking water should always be available. During warm weather, check it several times a day and keep the container in the shade.

If you have a larger flock, provide more than one feeding and drinking point so dominant hens cannot prevent others from eating or drinking.

Keep the Chicken Run Clean

Whatever you decide to put in a chicken run, it should be easy to clean and maintain.

Remove obvious droppings regularly, particularly beneath perches, around feeders and beside the coop entrance.

Replace wet or dirty flooring before it begins to smell. Move logs, shelters and other objects occasionally so you can clean underneath and check for dampness, rodents or mites.

Good drainage is extremely important. Even the best chicken run flooring will become unpleasant if water is allowed to collect.

Our guide on how to keep your chicken coop clean includes more advice on maintaining the coop, run and equipment.

Things You Should Not Put in a Chicken Run

Avoid anything that could cause injury, trap a bird or expose the flock to harmful substances.

This includes:

• Treated or painted timber
• Sharp metal or broken plastic
• Loose netting
• Long pieces of string
• Mouldy food or bedding
• Toxic plants
• Chemical garden products
• Very dusty industrial materials
• Unstable furniture
• Containers that collect deep rainwater

Check second-hand items carefully before using them. Old garden equipment may contain sharp edges, flaking paint or unknown chemical treatments.

Change the Run Occasionally

Chickens are naturally curious, but even an interesting run can become familiar over time.

You do not need to replace everything. Moving a perch, adding a fresh log or changing the position of a scratching tray can give your hens something new to investigate.

During summer, focus on shade and plenty of fresh water. In winter, prioritise dry shelter, drainage and enrichment that will not immediately become wet or muddy.

Creating a Happy and Practical Chicken Run

When deciding what to put in a chicken run, begin with the essentials: secure fencing, suitable flooring, shelter, clean water and enough room for your flock.

You can then add natural features such as perches, logs, hiding places, a dust bath and simple chicken enrichment activities.

The aim is not to fill every available space. Chickens still need open areas where they can walk, scratch and interact comfortably.

A good chicken run should be interesting for your hens but practical for you to clean and inspect. By combining secure housing with varied surfaces, shelter and natural enrichment, you can create a space that helps keep your flock active, comfortable and content.

Find Everything You Need for Your Chicken Run

At Pipinchick, we understand that a secure and well-planned run can make a real difference to your chickens’ everyday health and happiness.

Explore our chicken-keeping supplies for practical products to help you create a clean, comfortable and enriching space, or browse our chickens for sale if you are planning to welcome some new hens into your garden.

The Pipinchick team is also happy to offer friendly advice if you need help choosing suitable supplies for your flock.

How to Check for Red Mites in a Chicken Coop

Red mites can be more difficult to detect because they are nocturnal and usually hide within the coop during the day.

Regularly inspect the coop, paying close attention to cracks, perch ends and joins. You may see clusters of small grey, brown or red mites, or dark specks around their hiding places.

You can also check the coop at night using a head torch. Look along the perches and examine the birds while they are settled.

Wiping a piece of white kitchen roll around cracks and underneath perches can sometimes reveal red or brown smears from crushed mites.

Regular monitoring is important because a red mite infestation can increase quickly during warm weather. Government welfare guidance recommends checking both equipment and birds for mites and having an appropriate monitoring and treatment plan in place.

Preventing Internal Parasites in Chickens

Keeping the coop and run clean can help reduce the number of worm eggs and larvae in the environment.

Moving feeders and drinkers regularly, keeping bedding dry and preventing chickens from eating from heavily contaminated ground can also help.

Some chicken keepers use garlic, herbal products or ready-made natural remedies between treatments. However, these products should not be assumed to reliably prevent or eliminate a worm infestation.

Medicated worming treatments should only be used according to their packaging, current veterinary guidance and the needs of your flock.

A faecal worm egg count can also help establish whether treatment is required. This may be particularly useful if you are unsure whether your chickens have worms or want to avoid treating unnecessarily.

Effective Treatment for Mites, Lice and Parasites

The right treatment depends on the type of parasite involved. It is important to distinguish between mites, lice, worms, respiratory disease and other possible causes of illness wherever possible.

Treatments should be authorised for use in chickens and used according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This is particularly important for laying hens because some products have restrictions relating to eggs or meat.

Speak to a poultry-friendly vet if:

• Your chicken is very weak or pale
• She is struggling to breathe
• She has stopped eating or drinking
• The infestation is severe
• Several birds are affected
• Symptoms continue after treatment
• You are uncertain which parasite is causing the problem

Treating Internal Parasites, Including Gapeworm

Most common internal worms live in a chicken’s digestive system. Gapeworm, however, lives within the respiratory system and may cause symptoms such as stretching the neck, opening the beak, head shaking, coughing or gasping.

These symptoms can look similar to those caused by respiratory infections, including Mycoplasma, so it is important not to assume that every gasping chicken has gapeworm.

Flubenvet is a medicated poultry wormer containing flubendazole. It should be used strictly according to the current product instructions or veterinary advice.

Where a powdered wormer is mixed into feed, prepare the correct amount for the full treatment period and ensure it is mixed thoroughly. The birds should receive the treated feed as directed on the packaging.

Avoid guessing the dosage or changing the treatment period. Always check the current instructions because authorised uses, dosing guidance and withdrawal information can change.

Regular worming schedules were once widely recommended, but many keepers now use a combination of good hygiene, monitoring and faecal testing to decide when treatment is appropriate. Your vet can advise you on a suitable approach for your flock and local conditions.

How to Treat Mites and Lice on Chickens

If you find mites or lice on your chickens, begin by identifying whether the problem is living mainly on the birds or within the chicken coop.

Poultry lice usually remain on the bird, while red mites spend much of their time hidden within the housing.

Clean the coop thoroughly by:

• Removing all bedding
• Taking out removable perches and trays
• Scrubbing joints and crevices
• Cleaning beneath perch ends
• Allowing the house to dry
• Applying an appropriate poultry-safe treatment according to its instructions

Replacing the bedding with clean, dry material

The birds may also need treatment with a product authorised or recommended for use against the parasite concerned.

Avoid using ordinary dog or cat flea shampoos or treatments unless a vet has specifically advised that the particular product is safe and appropriate for chickens. Products formulated for other species may contain ingredients or doses that are unsuitable for poultry.

When using powders, sprays or washes, follow the instructions carefully and avoid the eyes, nostrils and mouth. Make sure birds are kept warm and dry after any approved washing treatment.

With poultry lice, repeat treatment may be required because some products do not kill the eggs attached to the feather shafts.

For a serious red mite infestation, your vet may prescribe Exzolt. This is a prescription-only treatment added to drinking water and is specifically authorised in Great Britain for treating poultry red mite infestations in chickens.

Treating the birds alone will not resolve a red mite infestation. You will also need to clean, monitor and treat the chicken house as advised because most of the mites will be hiding within the environment.

How to Treat Scaly Leg Mites

Scaly leg mites burrow beneath the scales on a chicken’s legs and feet. As the infestation develops, the scales may become raised, rough, crusty or distorted.

Do not try to pull off or scrub away the raised scales, as this can cause pain, bleeding and permanent damage.

Treatment generally involves coating the legs and feet with a suitable barrier or scaly leg treatment. This can help smother the mites while protecting the affected skin.

Apply the product according to its instructions, making sure it reaches beneath and around the raised areas without forcing the scales upwards.

The chicken coop should also be cleaned and any affected flock mates checked. Improvement may take time because damaged leg scales will not immediately return to normal, even after the mites have been treated.

Ask a vet for advice if the legs are swollen, bleeding, infected or badly distorted.

Keeping Your Chickens Happy and Healthy

Parasites are a common problem, but regular checks and a clean, dry living environment can make infestations much easier to prevent and manage.

Get into the habit of checking your hens beneath the wings, around the vent and along the legs and feet. Inspect the chicken coop regularly too, particularly around perches and hidden crevices where red mites may gather.

At Pipinchick, we stock a range of chicken healthcare products, coop-cleaning supplies and dust bath essentials to help you care for your flock. Browse our chicken supplies online, or contact the Pipinchick team for friendly advice about choosing suitable products for your hens.

Can You Add Wood Ash?

Some chicken keepers add wood ash to dust baths. Fine ash can help create the loose texture chickens enjoy and may help absorb oils.

However, only use a small amount of clean, fully cooled ash from untreated wood.

Do not use ash from:

• Painted or treated timber
• Coal
• Barbecues containing charcoal briquettes
• Burned rubbish
• Wood containing glue, varnish or chemicals

Wood ash can be very fine and dusty, so it should not make up the majority of the mixture. Too much may irritate the chickens’ eyes or respiratory systems.

If you are unsure where the ash came from, leave it out. Soil and sand are perfectly adequate on their own.

Should You Add Diatomaceous Earth?

Diatomaceous earth is sometimes recommended for chicken dust baths, but it needs to be handled carefully.

The powder is extremely fine and can become airborne when chickens flap and roll. Breathing in dust may irritate both human and chicken respiratory systems.

For this reason, many chicken keepers choose not to add it to a general dust bath. If you decide to use any powdered product around your chickens, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and avoid creating clouds of dust.

A well-maintained dust bath made from ordinary dry soil and sand is usually all your hens need for normal bathing behaviour.

How to Make a Dust Bath for Chickens

Making the dust bath itself should only take a few minutes.

Choose a sheltered, dry location.

Place your container somewhere stable and level.

Fill it with approximately 10 to 15 centimetres of dry soil, sand or a mixture of both.

Break up any hard clumps and remove stones, sharp objects or rubbish.

Leave enough space at the top of the container to reduce the amount of mixture kicked out.

Your chickens may investigate it immediately, or they may ignore it for a few days. You can encourage them by sprinkling a little loose soil around the edge or placing the container near an area where they already like to dust bathe.

Once one hen starts using it, the others will usually follow.

How Do You Keep a Chicken Dust Bath Clean?

A chicken dust bath does not need intensive cleaning, but it should be checked regularly.

Remove droppings, wet bedding, feathers and any food that has been scratched into it. Break up compacted areas and top up the soil or sand when the level drops.

If the mixture becomes wet, spread it out somewhere dry before returning it, or replace it with fresh material.

The full contents should be replaced if the dust bath becomes dirty, develops an unpleasant smell or is contaminated by rodents or wild animal droppings.

It is also worth checking underneath the container for signs of dampness, slugs or rodents.

What If My Chickens Will Not Use Their Dust Bath?

Some chickens are very particular about where they dust bathe.

If they are not using the container, check that it is:

• Large enough
• Easy to step into
• In a quiet location
• Protected from rain
• Filled with a fine, loose mixture
• Away from busy feeders and drinkers

Your hens may simply prefer a natural patch of dry earth. You can try moving the dust bath to the area they have chosen or placing some of their preferred soil inside the container.

Do not worry if they only use it occasionally. Chickens often dust bathe more frequently during warm, dry weather.

Can Chicks Have a Dust Bath?

Young chicks may begin attempting to dust bathe from a surprisingly early age.

You can provide a very shallow tray of clean, dry soil or fine sand once they are old enough to move around confidently. The tray should be stable and easy to step in and out of.

Avoid deep containers and very dusty materials. Always make sure the chicks cannot become trapped, chilled or covered in wet material.

A Simple Way to Keep Your Chickens Happy

A dust bath is one of the easiest and least expensive forms of chicken enrichment you can provide.

It gives your hens somewhere to keep their feathers in good condition, helps them carry out natural behaviour and can keep them entertained for a considerable amount of time.

There is no need to make the mixture complicated. A large container filled with dry soil and fine sand, placed somewhere sheltered, is often the perfect chicken dust bath.

You may still find your hens digging a new hole elsewhere five minutes later, but that is all part of the fun of keeping chickens.

Find Everything You Need for Happy, Healthy Chickens

At Pipinchick, we understand that the little details make a big difference to your chickens’ health and happiness. From choosing the right hens for your garden to creating a comfortable, enriching space for them to explore, we are here to help.

Take a look at our chickens for sale and chicken-keeping supplies, or get in touch with the Pipinchick team if you need friendly advice about caring for your flock.

Top 5 Pet Chickens For Friendliness

1. Silkie Hens
2. Polish Hens
3. Cochin Hens
4. Bantam Faverolles Hens
5. Pekin Bantam Hens

Keeping chickens is such a fun, wholesome, rewarding experience, and as any chicken owner will tell you, there is nothing quite like enjoying fresh eggs straight from your own hens. If you’ve ever cracked open an egg from your own flock and noticed a deep golden yolk or a sturdy, well-formed shell, you’ll know there’s something special about eggs that come from home-reared hens. When chickens are happy, relaxed, and free to live as nature intended, they don’t just live their best lives - they lay better, taster eggs that are actually healthier for you, too.

At Pipinchick, we know that keeping hens isn’t just about collecting eggs; it’s about ensuring they lead enriched, contented lives. Whether you’re new to chicken keeping or a seasoned hen enthusiast, understanding how happiness affects egg quality can make a world of difference.

The Link Between Happy Hens and Better Eggs

Hens are naturally inquisitive, social, and active creatures. Given the right environment, they will spend their days scratching, pecking, dust bathing, and foraging—instinctive behaviours that keep them physically and mentally well.

When a hen is happy, her body functions as it should. She digests her food efficiently, absorbs nutrients properly, and maintains strong bones and a well-balanced immune system. All of this contributes to better egg production, both in terms of quantity and quality.

On the other hand, stress, poor diet, and lack of space can have the opposite effect. A hen under stress may lay fewer eggs, experience shell deformities, or even stop laying altogether.

The Role of Foraging in Hen Happiness

One of the simplest ways to keep your hens happy is to encourage natural foraging. Given the chance, chickens will spend hours exploring, scratching at the ground, and hunting for tasty morsels. This isn’t just fun for them—it’s vital for their wellbeing.

Foraging offers several key benefits:

• A Natural Diet – When hens forage, they consume a variety of insects, seeds, grasses, and other natural foods. This enhances their diet with essential proteins, vitamins, and minerals, all of which contribute to strong eggshells and nutrient-rich yolks.
• Mental Stimulation – A bored hen is an unhappy hen. Foraging keeps chickens engaged and curious, preventing stress-related behaviours like feather pecking or excessive vocalisation.
• Exercise and Muscle Strength – Scratching, pecking, and moving around freely keeps hens active, supporting strong muscles and bone health—key factors in producing high-quality eggs.

If your hens don’t have access to large outdoor areas, you can still encourage foraging by scattering treats like mealworms, grains, or leafy greens around their run. Hiding food under straw or in hanging baskets also stimulates natural behaviours and keeps them entertained.

Read more about why hens love to forage here with plenty more tips on how to help them.

A Stress-Free Environment for Optimal Egg Production

Stress has a direct impact on a hen’s ability to lay eggs. A calm and comfortable environment ensures that your birds stay productive and healthy. Here are a few ways to reduce stress in your flock:

• Adequate Space – Overcrowding can lead to competition, bullying, and anxiety among hens. Ensure they have enough room to move freely, with separate areas for feeding, roosting, and laying eggs.
• Safe and Secure Housing – Hens feel safer when they have a cosy, sheltered space to retreat to at night. A well-built chicken coop protects them from predators and harsh weather, allowing them to roost undisturbed.
• Consistent Routine – Chickens thrive on routine. Keeping feeding, cleaning, and egg collection times consistent helps them feel secure and reduces unnecessary stress.

Diet: The Foundation of Egg Quality

What your hens eat directly affects the eggs they produce. A balanced diet rich in essential nutrients supports healthy egg formation and ensures strong shells and vibrant yolks.

• Calcium – Essential for shell strength. Provide a constant source of oyster shell grit or crushed eggshells to keep calcium levels high.
• Protein – Vital for feather growth and egg production. Chicken feed typically contains the right amount of protein, but supplementing with mealworms, sunflower seeds, or peas can be beneficial.
• Fresh Greens – Leafy greens, herbs, and vegetable scraps provide vitamins and minerals while keeping hens happily occupied.
• Clean Water – Always ensure fresh, clean water is available. Dehydration can quickly impact egg production and overall health.

Find out more about the benefits of giving your chicken live feed.

Spotting the Signs of a Happy Hen

How can you tell if your hens are truly content? Look out for these signs of happiness:

• Bright, Alert Eyes – Healthy, happy hens are curious and engaged with their surroundings.
• Regular Egg Laying – A happy hen will lay consistently with eggs that have strong shells and richly coloured yolks.
• Active Foraging and Scratching – If your hens spend their days busily pecking at the ground, they’re in their element.
• Soft, Rhythmic Clucking – Contented hens make gentle, reassuring sounds rather than loud, distressed squawking.
• Smooth, Well-Groomed Feathers – A relaxed hen will take time to preen, keeping her feathers clean and well-maintained.

The Joy of Raising Happy Hens

Keeping hens is more than just a hobby—it’s a way to connect with nature, embrace sustainable living, and enjoy fresh, delicious eggs. When you focus on their wellbeing, you’ll notice the difference not just in their behaviour but in the quality of the eggs they produce.

At Pipinchick, we celebrate the joy of chicken keeping and the simple pleasure of raising a happy, healthy flock. By providing a natural environment, a nutritious diet, and plenty of opportunities for foraging, you’ll be rewarded with happier hens—and the best-tasting eggs you’ve ever had. 

Our live chickens are for sale online, and Pipnchick are the UK’s number one most trusted pet poultry provider. We deliver happy, healthy chickens safely to your door. All our chickens are reared lovingly by us on our farm in the beautiful Chew Valley, just outside Bristol. 

If you’ve ever watched hens happily scratching around, you’ll know that foraging is second nature to them. Chickens love to peck and rummage, searching for treats hidden in the soil. So, if you are keeping chickens, it makes total sense that one of the best ways to support their natural behaviour and boost their nutrition is by offering them live feed. Live grubs are packed with protein and essential nutrients and encourage a more enriched, active lifestyle for your flock.

Why Feed Live Grubs to Chickens?

Adding live grubs to your chickens’ diet is a brilliant way to provide extra protein in a natural way. In the wild, chickens would feed on insects and larvae, so feeding them live grubs mimics this natural diet. The movement of the grubs encourages chickens to actively forage and scratch, keeping them entertained and reducing boredom, which is especially helpful in enclosed spaces.

Live feed also plays a role in overall hen health. Protein is essential for feather growth, egg production, and muscle development. Hens need even more protein when they’re moulting or laying, making live grubs a great addition to their daily feed routine.

What Types of Live Feed Can You Feed Chickens?

At Pipinchick, we offer a variety of live grubs for chickens, each with unique benefits for your birds:

Live Mealworms – A firm favourite with most chickens! Mealworms are high in protein and fat, providing an energy boost, especially in colder months. They are perfect as a treat or to encourage natural foraging behaviour. Shop live Mealworms for chickens here »

Live Calci Worms – These little grubs are a fantastic source of calcium, which is essential for strong eggshells and healthy bones. If you want to support your hens’ overall health while keeping their eggs strong, Calci worms are a great choice. Shop live Calci Worms for chickens here »

Live Mario Worms – A larger grub that takes chickens a bit longer to eat, making them a brilliant enrichment snack. They are packed with protein and have a meatier texture, keeping hens engaged for longer while delivering important nutrients. Shop live Mario Worms here »

How to Feed Live Grubs to Your Chickens

Feeding live grubs to chickens is easy and rewarding. Simply scatter them onto the ground, and your hens will immediately start scratching and pecking as they hunt for their tasty snack. You can also mix them into your chickens’ regular feed or put them in a shallow dish.

Live feed can be given as an occasional treat or a more regular part of their diet, particularly during the colder months, moulting season, or when extra protein is needed. Just be sure to balance treats with their usual high-quality feed to maintain a well-rounded diet.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Pipinchick Poultry (@pipinchickpoultry)

Happy Hens Means Healthy Eggs

Providing your flock with live grubs isn’t just about nutrition—it’s about encouraging their natural instincts, promoting activity, and keeping them happy. A well-fed, stimulated hen is more likely to lay delicious, nutrient-rich eggs, and there’s nothing better than knowing your birds are thriving.

At Pipinchick, we believe in giving chickens the best quality of life possible and adding the live feed to their diet is a fantastic way to enrich their day. Whether you choose Mealworms, Calci Worms, or Mario Worms, your hens will love you for it!

Take a look at our selection of live feed and treat your flock to something they’ll go wild for!

How to Keep Your Chickens Happy and Healthy During Flockdown

Avian Flu restrictions in the UK change frequently, so the single most important thing any chicken keeper can do is check the current rules before acting. You can always see the latest official position on the government's bird flu situation page, and check whether any disease control zones affect your area using the DEFRA interactive map.

Where things stand now: the nationwide housing measures and Avian Influenza Prevention Zone (AIPZ) that were in force over the 2024–25 winter were lifted in spring/summer 2026, and Great Britain has since declared freedom from highly pathogenic avian influenza. That means there is currently no mandatory housing order — but good biosecurity is still strongly advised, and rules can be reintroduced quickly if the risk rises again. This guide explains how flockdowns and AIPZs work so you're ready if restrictions return.

During any "flockdown," free-range birds must be moved indoors or into a fully covered run to keep them away from wild birds, the main source of infection. Alongside housing, keepers are expected to follow strict biosecurity: cleaning and disinfecting hands, clothing, footwear and equipment; limiting movement in and out of enclosures; storing feed and water where wild birds can't reach them; and keeping vermin under control. When an AIPZ is active, these measures are legally enforceable for allkeepers, regardless of flock size.

What the Main Avian Flu Restrictions Involve (When They're in Force)

When a flockdown or AIPZ is active, the main restrictions typically include:

• Housing Requirements – All poultry and captive birds must be kept indoors or in a fully covered run to reduce contact with wild birds, which are a primary source of infection.
• Biosecurity Measures – Bird keepers must take extra precautions, including:
  • Regularly clean and disinfect hands, clothing, footwear, and equipment before and after handling birds.
  • Minimising movement in and out of bird enclosures.
  • Storing feed and water in a way that prevents access by wild birds.
  • Keeping the area free from vermin to prevent contamination.

These rules are legally enforceable and apply to all poultry keepers, no matter the size of their flock. While the UK Health Security Agency has assessed the risk to humans as very low, it's important to stay vigilant. Any suspected cases of Avian Flu must be reported to DEFRA immediately, which you can do here. 

For the latest government updates and full guidance, visit the official website: GOV.UK.

What To Do If Your Chickens Show Signs of Bird Flu

Avian Flu spreads quickly, and early detection is key. If you notice any of the following symptoms in your flock, take action immediately:

• Swollen head, eyes, or neck
• Sudden loss of energy or appetite
• Blue discolouration of the comb and wattles
• Sneezing, coughing, or wheezing
• Diarrhoea
• Sudden and unexplained death

If your birds show any of these signs, report it to DEFRA (Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs). Do not move your birds, and avoid contact with other poultry keepers until you receive guidance on what to do next.

Keeping Your Chickens Happy and Healthy During Avian Flu Restrictions

All chicken keepers in Avian Influenza Prevention Zones (AIPZ) must follow the latest guidelines to protect their birds. Keeping chickens indoors or in a covered run is crucial to stopping the virus from spreading, but it can come with challenges.

Chickens love their routines. If they're used to free-ranging around the garden, they might get bored or even a little frustrated when suddenly confined to a smaller space. The good news is there are plenty of ways to keep them entertained, active, and stress-free while following the current guidelines. Extended confinement can lead to boredom and feather-pecking, so it's worth adding enrichment.

Making The Most Of A Large Run

If you have space for a covered run, this will give your chickens more room to move around while staying protected. Here are some simple ways to keep the space interesting:

Perches at Different Heights – Chickens love to hop up onto things. Adding tree branches, wooden planks, or even an old ladder gives them places to roost and explore.

Hanging Greens – Tie up bunches of leafy greens like cabbage, kale, or broccoli. This keeps them busy pecking while also providing extra nutrition.

Dust Bath Areas – A shallow tray filled with dry soil, sand, and a bit of wood ash helps chickens keep their feathers clean and mites at bay.

Scratching Zones – Scatter some poultry-safe grains or mealworms into a pile of straw to encourage natural foraging behaviour.

Take a look at all of our range of walk-in runs here, and if you use code chickenrun2025 until the 28th Feb you can get 5% off.

Boredom Busters for Chickens

Chickens are curious creatures, and without their usual space to roam, they'll need a few extra distractions. Here are some easy and affordable boredom busters:

Chicken-Safe Treat Balls – A sturdy, perforated ball filled with corn or seeds makes a great toy that encourages pecking and movement. Take a look at our chicken treat balls here.

Mirrors and Reflective Surfaces – Some hens enjoy looking at themselves, and a small, securely fastened mirror can provide entertainment.

Logs and Branches – Arranging logs or branches in different ways encourages climbing and exploration.

DIY Pecking Toys – A plastic bottle with holes poked in it, filled with mealworms or grain, makes a great interactive treat dispenser.

Pumpkins or Melons – Cut in half and left in the run, these make for a tasty, time-consuming snack.

PoleTree Chicken Perch - A quick and easy to install, ready made solution to create a stimulating and sociable staircase of perches. Take a look at our PoleTree chicken perches here.

For more boredom buster ideas for chickens, you take a look at this article:

Pipinchick for Happy and Healthy Chickens

Keeping chickens isn't just about eggs – it's about enjoying their quirky personalities and giving them the best care possible. Chickens are intelligent, social animals, and a little extra effort during these restrictions will help keep them happy and engaged. With a bit of creativity, their temporary indoor life can be just as enriching as their usual outdoor adventures. 

For more updates and tips on keeping your flock happy, you can follow Pipinchick on Instagram or Facebook. Take a look at our range of large chicken runs here. We also have all the poultry supplies you'll need to keep your chickens happy and healthy during Flockdown and beyond. 

Getting your birds ready for a spell indoors? Browse our Chicken House & Run Accessories to adapt your setup for extended confinement.

3. Water Management

Hydration is really important to keep on top of in summer for your chickens and cold water is going to be your hens’ best friend during the summer months. Chickens don’t sweat so they can overheat quickly especially in warmer weather and then they can quickly become dangerously dehydrated. To counteract the risk of dehydration, ensure a constant supply of fresh, clean water is readily available within the coop and run area. Spill-proof waterers are a good investment as they minimise wastage and help avoid contamination. You can also relocate your waterers to the shady areas and consider using insulation to keep their water source cool. Timetable regular checks throughout the day to ensure the water is cool and plentiful.

4. Dust Bathing Opportunities

Chickens have a predisposition to enjoy dust bathing as part of their daily grooming routine. It helps to control pests and keep feathers and skin healthy. Allowing plenty of areas for dust bathing becomes particularly important in warmer weather when parasites are more common. Regularly replenish the dust bathing material to keep it clean and effective in controlling parasites and offer up different areas, including one in the shade. We recommend checking your housing paying particular attention to perch ends, in the nest boxes and any cracks and crevices. If you find any red mites act as soon as you can to avoid them getting out of control to prevent them impacting on your bird’s health. A tip is to quietly look in the coop with a torch after dark – they mostly come out then. If you get a sheet of white paper and press any red mites you find onto it, red streaks will appear. To rid the coop of red mites, remove any litter and use a detergent to wash down, then allow to dry. There are also products that can be used to remove the Red Mite eggs, as well as the Red Mite.

5. Predator Prevention

Electric Netting -
Using electric netting for poultry has long been seen as the best. Electric netting fences keep both poultry in and predators out as they provide a 'blanket coverage' going from ground level up to 105cm. The gaps in the netting start off at 5cm horizontal spacings (even bantams won't escape through them) and get increasingly larger as they get higher.

Post & Twine / Wire -
Another very effective method of fencing in poultry and keeping foxes / dogs out and it has the advantage of being a more flexible method than using netting as it can hug the contours of the ground very easily. This method is not as effective at keeping smaller birds in as it doesn't hug the ground as closely as the netting and they can escape under the lines if they find a dip in the ground.

In summary

With careful planning, and consistent attention to your flock, summertime need not cause any extra worry, just more time to spend outdoors enjoying the better weather and your wonderful chickens. Here at Pipinchick Silkies, we have chickens for sale and hens for sale and like to do our very best to help our customers, whether or not they are new to keeping chickens, with any questions they have on suitability and environment.

Getting mites in your coop is pretty heart breaking, your poor hens will be itchy and uncomfortable. Red Mites along with other mites live on the bird but can

Chickens are becoming increasingly popular as pets in the UK as they are fairly easy to look after, have tremendous personalities and also give a little something back in the form of delicious eggs. We love every chicken we raise on our farm and want to make sure that each home they go to has a good idea of the best way of looking after our beautiful chickens. We are able to give you advice in person or via phone or email to make sure your chickens stay healthy and happy.

Choosing Your Chickens

Now comes the fun bit, choosing which chickens you would like to keep. We have a beautiful range of chickens from you to choose from including Silkies, hybrid chickens, bantams hens, large pure bread chickens and more. You can view our buying guide here or give us a call and arrange a visit to see the chickens in the flesh!